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Over the last year the K-II EMF meter has regained popularity in the ghost hunting community. However, if there are two complaints about the meter. First, there is the price gouging that is going on at E-Bay; not much we can do about that except not to purchase . The second is the switch; that problem we can fix in about 15 minutes.
I bring you the BSPHI K-II Trick Out Guide
Required supplies:
- K-II Meter
- Switch
- Phillips Screw Driver
- Electrical Solder & Iron
- Two thin pieces of wire
- Drill with 1/4" bit
- Marker
| Step Number 1 |
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Obtain the switch. I used the Radio Shack switch number 275-624.
This was about the smallest switch that I was able to find and at $2.99 is is a bargain.
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| Step Number 2 |
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Turn the unit over.
Remove the two Phillips screws that attach the bottom of the unit to the top.
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| Step Number 3 |
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The circle area is the switch that causes all of the problems. Refrain from taking out your anger from smashing it with a hammer. The are that we will be working on is directly behind this switch. |
| Step Number 4 |
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Directly behind this switch are 4 solder joints.
Plug the battery back on the unit.
Take a small piece of wire and bend it into a horse shoe shape.
Use this wire to find the two joints that makes the lights turn on.
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| Step Number 5 |
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Once you find the two joints that makes the unit function, mark them with a marker. |
| Step Number 6 |
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Now you are ready to solder. But before you do make sure that you are using Electrical Solder. |
| Step Number 7 |
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- Strip both ends of the two small pieces of wire.
- Solder one end each of the two small pieces of wire to the two pins that you marked with the marker.
- After these two wires are attached then reattach the battery to the unit
- Touch the two free ends of wire to each other.
- The lights should work.
- If not recheck your solder connections
- Once the lights work, remove the battery
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| Step Number 8 |
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- Solder the two free ends of the wires to each of the terminals of the switch.
- It does not matter the terminal that the wires are attached too.
- After these two wires are attached then reattach the battery to the unit
- Active switch
- The lights should work.
- If not recheck your solder connections.
- Once the lights work, remove the battery
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| Step Number 9 |
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Locate where the switch is to be installed on the unit. Make sure it does not interfere with the battery. |
| Step Number 10 |
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Drill a 1/4" diameter hole at the location you have chosen for the switch. |
| Step Number 11 |
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Disassemble the nut from the switch. |
| Step Number 12 |
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- Place the nut into the 1/4" hole that you drilled
- Attach the nut to the outside of the housing.
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| Step Number 13 |
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Reassemble the back to the front. Take care not to force the assembly. If it does not fit easy make sure there are no wires in the way and that the lights are lined up with the holes in the cover. |
| Step Number 14 |
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Test the unit with the new switch. The first light should glow. |
| Step Number 15 |
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Test the unit with the old switch. The first light should glow. |
| Step Number 16 |
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There you go! Your unit is all 'Tricked out'. Now go out there are do some ghost hunting. |
That's it your done. If you ever need any help please drop me an e-mail.
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